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Wool Dyeing – Equipment Needed For Advanced Methods
This is the second one in a sequence of articles on wool dyeing. the use of 3 rules Metric measurements liquid dye inventory and percentage-based formulation. In the primary installment, I gave an summary of the wool dyeing approach and the explanations in the back of it. In this installment, I’ll pass into extra element on my favourite apparatus.
These strategies will also be carried out to the dyeing of all wool fibers, from wool to yarn. Since it relies extra at the weight of the wool than its measurement, in reality you’ll be able to dye different fibers and fabrics as neatly, the use of equivalent apparatus and the strategies I’ve described. different pass is imaginable There is an opportunity that it’s going to want to be adjusted to fit the dye product you might be the use of and the fiber you might be dyeing. So even though you might be dyeing silk, cotton or different fibers, learn on!
Here are some concepts and proposals for consumables – no less than those that paintings neatly for me. on the finish of the item I will be able to supply hyperlinks and different knowledge on the place to search out those units.
I at all times use white wool or the lightest herbal wool imaginable. This assists in keeping the procurement of uncooked fabrics to a minimal and in addition standardizes necessary parameters when examining base colors. It could be a lot more tough to make use of two other fundamental colours for each materials. inflicting the dye components for the dye was exceeded So it is very other. however discovering the colour It is way more straightforward to ‘in-between’ when having a look at two wool colours the place each are created the use of the similar 3 number one colours on white or herbal wool. By standardizing the bottom colour and the use of simplest the principle dye. The two formulation are due to this fact similar. So the colours in between are generated the use of a mathematical components someplace between two different equivalent mathematical formulation. What if I make a mistake in formulating? I regularly catch it after I examine the ensuing colour to the mathematical colour on each side. If it does now not practice the logical means of colour, then what colour is used? This systematic manner has created an excessively delightful and comfy predictability in dyeing. What if I desire a particular impact the use of a unique base colour? I will be able to at all times dye white wool into this base. after which end the particular results. I’ve discovered that on occasion the will for this two-step procedure is best than maintaining a couple of coloured wools in inventory.
I used ProChem Washfast acid dye by way of buying the 3 number one colours supplied. with those colours It is due to this fact imaginable to breed the total vary of colours in lots of settings, from near-white to deep black. It’s nearly any colour I would like. Although commonplace grays and blacks will also be reproduced with the principle colour. But I discovered that the ones formulation did not paintings as neatly for particular results like gradient dyes. The components will generally tend to split into parts as the colour develops. leading to unpredictable effects It’s now not that this may not paintings or be fascinating in some scenarios. But perhaps now not what I’m searching for. So the pre-formulated black from ProChem is extra predictable. Therefore, it’s higher suited to dealing harm and the use of relics. and for extraordinarily speckled results Basic browns and tans are harder to supply with consistency. So a normal dyeer may wish to inventory some grey, black and/or brown together with the principle colour.
I did two kinds of dyeing. Each has its personal cooking approach and container:
Color experiment on a small piece of wool. to search out new colours
Dye a big pile of wool to your personal use or to promote.
I examined the colour on one 4 gram (5″ X 5″ 13 ounce wool) piece of wool in six beakers part stuffed with water in a dry casserole. (Just to retailer it – any forged non-metallic container will do.) Cook it within the microwave. I take advantage of 300 mL science beakers as a result of they’re constructed to resist repeated warmth and chilly with out breaking. They’re narrow, so it is more straightforward for me to deal with. and put extra into the pot or casserole. (The jar will paintings neatly with a typical dyeing system.) I’ve attempted hundreds of fleeces to this point. They discovered that the microwave used to be essentially the most handy and, after all, essentially the most cost-effective method. I’ve attempted placing beakers or jugs in a water bathtub, at the range and within the oven. But I discovered this procedure to be extra time eating and logistically tough. So I needed to stick with the microwave. You might to find that you just want every other approach. So simply use whichever approach works for you. so long as the water is simmering in each and every jar in case you use the microwave. Be cautious when heating water in a small pot. If it is boiling Sometimes it’s going to swiftly ‘explode’ or ‘pop’, which will burn you. Wear protecting gloves in your palms and wrists when the water is close to boiling. In all my loads of clothes This took place two times. And when I had an unpleasant burn.
for enormous items of wool I take advantage of a typical chrome steel pot that many cloth dyes use, in case you are the use of an electrical range. You might want to put one thing additional between the burner and the fur. Unless you might be the use of a pleasing, heavy pot, a skinny steel pot positioned at once at the burner will purpose the fur at the backside of the pot to pick out up paint. purpose black spots You have two choices. A spacer will also be positioned between the pot and the burner. Or position a steamer on the backside of the pot to forestall this. I want the vegetable steamer. Because I will be able to give protection to my fur whilst leaving the pot at once at the range To warmth water quicker (I’m at all times in a rush)
I take advantage of a 3000g virtual scale, which weighs as with reference to a gram as imaginable. with a bin for storing wool They are compact, simple to make use of, now not too dear and sensible.
For small items I take advantage of 1 ml, 3 ml, 5 ml and 10 ml syringes for better ones. I switched to a 20 mL syringe or a 250 mL plastic beaker for better volumes. I’m the use of a 1000ml graded plastic jug from ProChem and I’ve examined and located that the gradations on those massive packing containers are fairly correct with 1000ml gradations. of syringes and small beakers So when measuring other quantities of dye, I believe assured that if I measure a part of the components in a jug and a few in an excessively small syringe, The ratio of the components will nonetheless be right kind. I’ve attempted different sizes of syringes and jars, however discovered them to be much less dependable with regards to marking accuracy. While this can be a topic with the precise product I encountered. All of this won’t subject to the common dyeer. But in case you want precision dyeing It undoubtedly makes a distinction. ‘Cause my denial stacks will end up it Also notice that the marks will take away after repeated use of a couple of syringes, so attempt to steer clear of touching the numbers and gradient traces as you’re employed.
I take advantage of Synthrapol or the unique Dawn (very equivalent chemically) to cut back the outside rigidity whilst staining.
I take advantage of citric acid or vinegar to decrease the pH of the dye and in case you have one. “Sour salt” at a cheap value (Sometimes you’ll be able to to find it at a canning retailer with dents.) This approach works, too, as a result of it is instantly citric acid. As maximum dyes will let you know. Vinegar is a lot more dear if used longer term. So in case you plan to dye in massive amounts. Use citric acid, which is extra handy and delightful to make use of.
For stirring, I used chrome steel chopsticks – they paintings nice when checking out colours in small pots. And it really works neatly in massive pots, too. For items as much as ½ backyard, I purchased a number of pairs and saved them in a beaker stuffed with water whilst staining. This assists in keeping the pot cleaner after I stir a number of pots. leaves directly the use of very other dyes. Especially if I stir black in a single pot and the following is mastic. It’s superb how slightly black dye carried out to the chopsticks can exchange the colour of a light yellow. (Don’t inquire from me how I do know.) I love them too as a result of they do not soak up dye and are compact and simple to retailer. Although now not appropriate for storing grain.
I take advantage of Glauber’s salt to stay the colour even at the fur. Which is how I promote it — only a dab. The salt molecules compete with the dye molecules to bind to the wool molecules. Effectively decelerate the adhesion of the dye to the wool. and thereby prevents the dye from ‘settling’ from smudging. For maximum paints This isn’t an issue with commonplace agitation. and for many of the colours in my assortment I will be able to now not use it But for gentle browns, tans, grays and a few darkish blues, vegetables and purples. Consistent colours are required. particularly within the weaker to average values. I do not apply it to the darker ranges. Because I discovered that it a great deal bogged down the absorption of the yellow dye when there used to be a large number of dye within the pot. This in most cases doubles the processing time. If you prefer asymmetric colours and/or do not handle the occasional slight accident within the dye pot. go away the salt if you wish to use I’ve discovered that common desk salt works simply as neatly.
Below are some assets for locating provides. I distribute those articles to many article websites. Some puts have strict limits at the choice of URLs utilized in articles. So I will be able to provide the identify and imagine you’ll be able to to find it simply on-line.
Door Mill – Wool (I used different assets too, like Woolrich)
Prochemicals & Dyes – Dye, Plastic Beaker, Jug, Citric Acid, Glauber’s Salt, Synthrapol
SKS science.com – glass beakers (to be had at different science websites or labs)
Old Will Knott Scales Online – Scale (search for ‘My Weigh 3001P’)
cook dinner.com – Stainless metal chopsticks, vegetable steamer (to be had at different kitchen outlets)
syringe Your native pharmacy will in most cases come up with a 1 mL slip-tipped syringe (no needle) without spending a dime in case you smile sweetly and do not ask too regularly. (They may also have a 3ml syringe.) They gave those as a courtesy to everybody. I ask for 3-4 at a time. You can discover a 10 mL syringe at a pharmacy for a couple of greenbacks. These sizes are the principle colour when experimenting with small items of wool. And I in most cases apply it to better wool pieces, so even though dyed 1/2 backyard at 5% (light) would nonetheless require simplest 10 mL of dye. eBay and eCrater are just right on-line resources for all sizes of syringes. Look for better veterinary syringes (most often 60 mL), despite the fact that I discovered the 250 mL pitcher from ProChem to be extra correct and similarly simple to make use of. Online used to be now not very a hit. Price used to be affordable. But in case you discover a just right supply Please let me know!
In case you wish to have to have a concise and exhaustive listing of apparatus. You’ll need to check out this system, see it right here.
Sun Yellow 119 dye
Dyes WF Magenta 338
Brilliant Blue 490 dye
brown dye (optionally to be had at ProChem)
Citric acid or distilled vinegar
Glauber’s salt or desk salt (not obligatory)
Synthrapol or Dawn dishwashing liquid
Plastic jug — 5 or 6 inches measurement 250 ml., 2 – 3 inches measurement 1,000 ml.
(All of the above will also be discovered at ProChem.)
Syringe 1 ml, 3 ml, 10 ml
Multi-purpose spoon for scooping dye when weighing. (Teaspoon or outdated measuring spoon will paintings.)
screw cap milk jug (or a smaller pitcher if you wish to have) for dyeing
Additionally, if you will experiment with colours, you can want:
6 – 12 beakers or jars
Casserole or different flat container
Microwave (ideally for staining)
6-8 glasses or further small cups for blending the recipe will probably be handy.
or for dyeing massive items of material:
3-4 massive chrome steel or tooth pots, about 20 quarts in measurement
Vegetable steamer (not obligatory)
I am hoping this knowledge will get you began. In the fourth installment, I’ll give an explanation for how I experimented with colour. It’s a amusing mission. this is assured to devour you in case you are now not cautious! You’ll want to permit a number of days. It relies on how detailed you wish to have it to be. I will be able to’t be held accountable if it seems to be every week. then Your circle of relatives will stay up for cooking soup in a pot. as a substitute of wool Better top off on frozen dinners!
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